Tôji market in the late afternoon (aka Heaven)

Honestly, after almost three months I am still pinching myself that I live in this city. Here we have Tôji, eighth-century temple grounds where Kûkai, founder of Japanese Shingon Buddhism (and some even say the first poem and the syllable-based language of Japan itself!), took up residence in the early Heian period. The temple was one of only three allowed in Kyoto (known as Heian-kyo at the time) after the capital was moved from Nara. Buddhism had become too big, too powerful, said many of the elite, and so the Emperor sought to create a new capital where politics could reign free of religious influence (good luck!). 

On the 21st of every month, in honor of the death date of Kûkai, a massive flea market pops up on the temple grounds. As you can see, it is splendid. Almost unbelievably so. Although we arrived in the late afternoon, when many merchants were closing up shop, my impression is that one could but just about anything here. Flowers, spices, axes, you name it!

Strolling with Lili, a sweet and dear friend visiting from Tokyo (although our friendship is rooted in Los Angeles), we marveled at the sights, ate tako yaki beneath the East gate, delighted at beautiful hair clips nestled against a lotus pond with a picturesque view of the pagoda, and I think I remarked at least three times how ABSOLUTELY PERFECT life was in that moment. It is owing to Lili, in fact, that we made it to the market. As you know from previous posts, I venture to the temple often and it may well be my favorite temple of them all, but I'd yet to seek out the market day. Thank you, Lili! 

We found amazing vintage robes (below), bought yuzu spice (delicious atop noodles), and chatted with a kimono dealing woman whose thick Kansai accent was barely comprehendible about the beauty of kimono and how it makes a lineage between women. 

Then, just as the sun was setting, we hopped a train to Nara for a dusk temple stroll and amazing meal at my favorite restaurant in the world, Kinasa (several previous posts about this total hidden gem of a restaurant/haven/home). Naturally, we modeled our new robes. We also made up spontaneous haikus for a fellow diner who had treated herself (TREAT YO'SELF) to a solo Nara adventure for her birthday. Every day is a treat. :)