Tokyo V
Today we visited Yasukuni Jinja, a shrine that serves as a memorial for those killed in war. It mostly applies to WWII, but they also intend it for historical people all the way back to the time of the samurai. It is actually a rather well known place and is often in the news, both domestic and international, because the emperor visits it and the US does not like that because they think it is honoring the soldiers and events of WWII. After visiting, my thoughts are mixed. There is a very serious and somber, yet peaceful and beautiful, air at Yasukuni. It is a beautiful enclosed area with trees, ponds, and amazing wooden structures, in the middle of Tokyo’s hustle and bustle.
We were given the unique opportunity to go into the main shrine, which the public cannot. We took our shoes off (as always) and filed in a small room with a horse-trough looking thing that you must purify your hands and mouth with before visiting the shrine (this is part of the Shinto importance of purity – it is quintessential). Then we were greeted by a Shinto priest in front of a kami (it was made of paper and kept in a small closet thing, but represents the gods/spirits in the tradition). He blessed us and then we proceeded to the inner hall. It smelled kind of like chocolate chips and was entirely made of wood. Perhaps the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. We all knelt down and five of the delegates gave an offering of a tree branch to a bench. The priest said it was to honor all those who have perished. Then we bowed and clapped and bowed – a very precise and elaborate ritual.
After all of this, we headed to the museum nearby, which was strange for me, since it contained actual kamikaze planes, guns, and was really a memorial for the Japanese. Though many Americans would probably be offended by this, it just felt very sad to me, knowing how many people on both sides died for what now seems like no good reason. The good relationship with Japan we have now – would it not have been possible without all the violence? I don’t know.
Some of the items were definitely Japan-biased (i.e. a souvenir book entitled “Nanking: The Truth Behind the Myth” which in effect is tantamount to the literature that claims the Holocaust never happened) but all in all it was a good learning experience. Being there with young Japanese people, walking through and taking it all in together, was very touching. The museum also had a more historical side, with actual samurai clothing, 1000 year old swords, and other cool artifacts. I couldn’t take any pictures of anything inside here or the shrine – sorry.
We headed immediately after to the American Embassy. Talk about security. You couldn’t bring anything in, not even your cell phone. A huge picture of George W. hung menacingly on the wall as I walked in the main building. We sat through a brief presentation by people from different sectors of the Embassy, mostly foreign service officers. The talk made me confirm that I did not want to be a foreign service officer. It was interesting though.
At this talk, some delegates began discussing who I look like. So far the list is: Uma Thurman, Goldie Hawn (?), Lucy Lawless (??), Jodi Foster. Anyway, they think I look like a celebrity. Very funny.
Moving along, we headed to the Visa International HQ in downtown Tokyo. Having a bit of free time before our “tour,” I headed with a few others to the Imperial Palace nearby, which houses the Emperor of Japan and the royal family. Considering that there is a real moat, high walls, and lots of shrubbery, you can’t see too much from the ground, but it was cool nonetheless. While strolling along, I got a call from Dan and several other friends at Hornings Hideout. Though it was nearing 5 p.m. here, they had just got out of a String Cheese show and it was midnight the night before in Oregon (the time change is sooooo weird). It was great to talk to them!
The Visa thing was interesting, but weird. We listened for an hour to the VP talk about how great Visa was and how it is a non-profit company (though we were sitting in a swanky conference room in a Tokyo high rise). Did not understand relevance to my own interests, but I did learn some stuff.
For dinner, I begrudgingly had pizza with some people, but it turned out to be awesome. The joint played reggae music and had authentic Italian pizza and gelato. It was nice to be done with another really long day. Would have gone to bed earlier than 12:42 AM, but I had to change rooms this morning and my luggage was locked in another girl’s room, and she decided to go out until midnight with other people and disregard the common courtesy that I might want to go to sleep. Security gave me a key and I am ready to sleep!
We were given the unique opportunity to go into the main shrine, which the public cannot. We took our shoes off (as always) and filed in a small room with a horse-trough looking thing that you must purify your hands and mouth with before visiting the shrine (this is part of the Shinto importance of purity – it is quintessential). Then we were greeted by a Shinto priest in front of a kami (it was made of paper and kept in a small closet thing, but represents the gods/spirits in the tradition). He blessed us and then we proceeded to the inner hall. It smelled kind of like chocolate chips and was entirely made of wood. Perhaps the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. We all knelt down and five of the delegates gave an offering of a tree branch to a bench. The priest said it was to honor all those who have perished. Then we bowed and clapped and bowed – a very precise and elaborate ritual.
After all of this, we headed to the museum nearby, which was strange for me, since it contained actual kamikaze planes, guns, and was really a memorial for the Japanese. Though many Americans would probably be offended by this, it just felt very sad to me, knowing how many people on both sides died for what now seems like no good reason. The good relationship with Japan we have now – would it not have been possible without all the violence? I don’t know.
Some of the items were definitely Japan-biased (i.e. a souvenir book entitled “Nanking: The Truth Behind the Myth” which in effect is tantamount to the literature that claims the Holocaust never happened) but all in all it was a good learning experience. Being there with young Japanese people, walking through and taking it all in together, was very touching. The museum also had a more historical side, with actual samurai clothing, 1000 year old swords, and other cool artifacts. I couldn’t take any pictures of anything inside here or the shrine – sorry.
We headed immediately after to the American Embassy. Talk about security. You couldn’t bring anything in, not even your cell phone. A huge picture of George W. hung menacingly on the wall as I walked in the main building. We sat through a brief presentation by people from different sectors of the Embassy, mostly foreign service officers. The talk made me confirm that I did not want to be a foreign service officer. It was interesting though.
At this talk, some delegates began discussing who I look like. So far the list is: Uma Thurman, Goldie Hawn (?), Lucy Lawless (??), Jodi Foster. Anyway, they think I look like a celebrity. Very funny.
Moving along, we headed to the Visa International HQ in downtown Tokyo. Having a bit of free time before our “tour,” I headed with a few others to the Imperial Palace nearby, which houses the Emperor of Japan and the royal family. Considering that there is a real moat, high walls, and lots of shrubbery, you can’t see too much from the ground, but it was cool nonetheless. While strolling along, I got a call from Dan and several other friends at Hornings Hideout. Though it was nearing 5 p.m. here, they had just got out of a String Cheese show and it was midnight the night before in Oregon (the time change is sooooo weird). It was great to talk to them!
The Visa thing was interesting, but weird. We listened for an hour to the VP talk about how great Visa was and how it is a non-profit company (though we were sitting in a swanky conference room in a Tokyo high rise). Did not understand relevance to my own interests, but I did learn some stuff.
For dinner, I begrudgingly had pizza with some people, but it turned out to be awesome. The joint played reggae music and had authentic Italian pizza and gelato. It was nice to be done with another really long day. Would have gone to bed earlier than 12:42 AM, but I had to change rooms this morning and my luggage was locked in another girl’s room, and she decided to go out until midnight with other people and disregard the common courtesy that I might want to go to sleep. Security gave me a key and I am ready to sleep!
Maybe what the Japanese feel when they consider their dead in WWII at Yaksukuni Jinja is like what Americans feel when they visit the Vietnam Memorial wall in D.C. - honor the soldiers, not the war. The souvenir book denying the Rape of Nanking is disturbing, though. The German government now includes the reality of the Holocaust in its curricula, and American texts now acknowledge the terrible sins committed against Native Americans and African-Americans in our history. A nation has to face up to these crimes so they will be less likely to gain support the next time they appear (as they always do). A few days after 9/11 we saw a letter taped to a memorial fence in Union Square in New York. It was signed by two exchange students from Japan, and it cautioned Americans against allowing our leaders to use this event to arouse the nation into a war, like the Japanese government had done in WWII. At least these two learned a lesson from their history. Too bad our country did not pay attention to them.
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