Hiroshima to Kyoto

August 12 & 13

I now write from Kyoto. Our last day in Hiroshima was our Forum, like we have in every city we visit. This time, we had group discussions and then presented what we discussed to the entire delegation as well as the public. My group was “Seeing both sides of the atomic issue.” Our discussion was quite fruitful and interesting. We talked about how education about Hiroshima and the a-bomb differs in the U.S. and Japan. In the U.S., I talked about how Pearl Harbor is emphasized and we learn that there was no choice but to drop the bomb to end the war quickly and save lives in the long run. The Japanese actually learn mostly about the actual dropping of the bomb and of the devastation from it. They don’t really learn about Pearl Harbor.

I think that both countries emphasize their victimization in war, and this is somewhat natural, owing to notions of patriotism. However, we should seek to broaden the perspective on this and all decisive moments in history so that students can see the whole picture.

We also spent time looking at the pros and cons of nuclear weapons, and also realism vs. idealism. I got into a quite intense chat with a Japanese guy, Toki, about the limitations (and in my view the necessity) of idealism. He thinks that just crying out for peace, like people do in Hiroshima, won’t do anything to change the minds of those who have nuclear weapons, but I reminded him that many small voices add up to a large one and that if everyone were only realistic our world would be even more destructive (and boring). It was good to have that sort of dialogue with someone from a different country. This is what our conference is all about!

I ended my time in Hiroshima with dinner at the most hole in the wall place you could imagine: small sign outside that I could not read (thank god for Japanese friends!). You ride up a tiny elevator to the 4th floor that opens onto a hallway with seemingly nothing interesting on it. But when you open one of the doors, the cutest retro Japanese/Italian looking restaurant appears. Old sake bottles littered the walls and accordion music playing a rendition of Queen’s “We are the Champions” filled the air. It was a rather small place, with only a few customers (who, naturally, stared at us most of the time). The type of cuisine is something I cannot remember, but it is basically rice and barley with some sort of meat (I had fresh tuna, but Josh had beef tongue which I tried and actually found delicious!) on top. A bowl of sauce with a slimy texture that someone said was “like mashed potatoes” was served on the side to be poured over it all. It didn’t taste like potatoes, but the meal was, all in all, very yummy! Top it off with sake, then later a Calpis sour (weird, creamy sweet drink mixed with some sort of liquor), and a glass of Nikka whisky for dessert, and I was sooo ready for bed.
Flash forward 6 hours. Getting up to get on the bus and head to Kyoto. We stopped at a strange scientific lab where they produce synchrotron radiation. I didn’t understand what the hell that meant, but everyone seemed to be highly intelligent. Basically, it is isolating electrons at the speed of light and bending them with a magnet, which produces said radiation. I’m not sure how, but this process allows researchers a new perspective on rocks, minerals, human muscles, cancerous tumors, and even catalytic converters!

I was very happy to then go to Himeji Castle, a beautiful 14th century wooden structure with five beautiful tiers. It was originally built as a military fortress, and it is designed with mazes and moats to confuse any enemy intruders. Although the castle never actually saw battle, it was easy to imagine how difficult it would be to penetrate it. The grounds were absolutely gorgeous, and just being there took your mind away from the torrential heat in the air. It was so hot I had sweat dripping just standing. The shade, though, was much appreciated and inside the castle, conveniently located windows let in a wonderful breeze.

You would think the day should end here, and so it should have, but owing to the length and intensity of this conference, the remaining bus ride was miserable. Have I mentioned yet that probably half of us are sick with some variation of flu, stomach ache, cold, and/or hangover. It is not so cool. I had a sore throat, but thankfully it has moved to my nose. I can’t taste or smell, but I have it good compared to some. We had to pull the bus over for about an hour because several people were getting very sick. We didn’t arrive in Kyoto till almost 9, and our dorm on the Ritsumeikan Campus has a 10:00pm curfew. Those of us able to had to run out to eat. I think I would have enjoyed my “karaage set” which is delicious chicken with rice, salad, and miso soup, but I really did not taste anything.

I am now writing from my 8 person camp-style bunk bed. I can’t wait for next week!