The Ramblings and Reflections of a Buddhist Scholar / Mother / Traveler / Good Friend
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Hall slippers, bathroom slippers, pink slippers, blue slippers, brown slippers. Chinese slippers, Japanese slippers, don’t slip. BYOS (bring your own socks), sanitize your feet, don’t bare your feet unless you have to, little feet, big feet, on your feet...all day. Phew!
The first of the month calls for ceremony at Zen temples, I learned today. I awoke at 6:00am and walked to the Buddha hall, astride with priests in robes of assorted colors who snickered at my Western, camera-holding, sleepy-eyed self. From the mesh siding of the south gate, we gathered and watched all the important priests of Myōshinji’s assorted temples gather and pay homage to the main Śakyamuni image and two flanking ones. The morning sunlight broke through tall windows, reflecting on the gold leaf lotus designs on a sparsely adorned altar featuring a large incense bowl and one tall and slender candle. Soft shuffling of oversized Chinese-style shoes, a grand bell hanging from thick white ropes. Three low bells, then several faster in higher tones. An elderly man, ostensibly the most senior priest, took center stage and prostrated each image while an adept chanter (beautiful voice, I thought) recited sutra verses. One priest paces outside with a checklist, taking attendance.
It was a full-sensory experience: wafting smell of incense, full color spectrum of clothing (black robes with dark blue shoes, purple and beige robes with black shoes and orange ribbons, mauve robe with orange and red shoes), low voices in unison, warm morning sunlight on my back, lingering taste of sleep. Devotees occasionally walked up to where we were standing and thunked offerings of change into a wooden box, which along with the sporadic flapping of pigeon wings were the only sounds that interrupted the ritual. More bells, and it’s over. The priests head toward rows of neatly lined white sandals, hang up their large shoes on bamboo carrying racks, and shuffle back to their individual temples. When it is all over, one more elderly lady s…l…o…w…l…y ascends the platform, fumbles in her pocket for a small green change purse, and rests her brown hat on the gate while she drops a coin in and takes a long, slow bow. I follow her lead and bow once to the image. All of this before 7:00am!!! The rest of the day will be covered when I have more genki (energy).
Sept. 9 I left Nara with an aching foot, shoulder, shin, and kneecap. Not to mention the equally injurious hangover. Let’s skip to something good…we were headed to Mt. Kōya! The beautiful mountain scenery on the trainride cleared my bad mood. I looked out at ancient tombs and wrote poetry. Civilization gradually turned to mountain vistas, and we passed through at least ten tunnels on our way up the mountain. The final push to the top required a short but impossibly steep cable car ride. I had another of those how-the-hell-did-anyone-establish-a-temple-complex-here moments. Short bus ride to Henjōkōin where Takayama-san, head temple administrator, greeted us with rosy cheeks and a huge smile. One of my favorite things about visiting temples in Japan is the happy-go-lucky demeanor of most people who reside therein. Inner peace and contentment really shines in their faces. We were led past an unbelievable garden that rose into the steep hillside to our tatami rooms on the second ...
On February 7 each year, local men in Owase, a small city in Mie prefecture sandwiched by mountains and ocean, perform an *interesting* ritual to ensure good weather and abundant crops in the year ahead. First, the men first carve giant phalluses and model farming tools from local cedar and bamboo. Second, they stuff their pockets with stonefish (okoze), an unsightly and highly venomous creature. Proceeding to a small worship hall in a grove of cinnamon trees, they offer the wooden implements and sake to the mountain goddess while laughing boisterously and mocking the hideous fish. "BAHAAHAHAHAHAHA," the men roar. "This is no fish at all!" According to local lore, when the sea god and the mountain god competed to see who could collect more "fruits" in their respective realms, the sea god emerged victorious thanks to the help of stonefish. The losing mountain god, a jealous female deity who detests "real" women, must therefore be specially ...
On the night of February 6 each year, upwards of 2,000 men brave the cold of winter to perform the Otō Matsuri, a wild rite of purification and renewal—by fire—designed to supplicate the mountain god(s) and pave the way for an auspicious year. In principle, the men have followed a strict code of abstinence for a week leading up to the event: performing daily water ablutions and bathing (naked) in the ocean; consuming only white-colored foods such as tofu, polished rice, and white fish cakes; and swearing off all contact with women. Today, the purification protocol extends for some only to the day of the event. Their minds and bodies pure, the “nobori-ko” (lit. “ascending children”), as they are called, don white clothing (robe, hood, headband), wrap straw ropes around their chest (7, 5, or 3 times, depending), and strap on straw sandals. Completing the get-up is a hand-held torch made of cypress wood, carved in the shape of a five-sided pyramid and stuffed with wood shavings. The ...
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