Noodling through Nara Part 1





Goodbye Kyoto adventure part one, hello Nara. Let me preface this by saying that I am absolutely enchanted by Nara, with its intoxicating ancient ambience, deer-filled parks, incredible art and architecture, and Kinasa, which I do believe is my favorite restaurant in all of Japan. We dropped our bags at the Nara International Seminar House and headed immediately to Kasuga shrine. We weaved down a forest path past huge sacred trees and deer alongside rows of moss-covered stone lanterns. 

When I think of Kasuga shrine, the first thing that comes to mind is the brilliant vermilion-orange color of the buildings and fences. Simply incredible with the contrast of the green park-like surroundings. Strolling the grounds of Kasuga shrine, set up against the foothills of Mt. Mikasa, I felt history literally come alive. Moments like that reaffirm my passion for what I do. Completely.


 
A delicious azuki (sweet red bean) shaved ice bowl allowed for time to reflect on the day. I was just so happy to be in Nara. After visiting Kasuga, the Fujiwara tutelary shrine, we headed to Kōfukuji, its companion temple. I walked among uniformed school children (I’m starting to feel like this is the only demographic that frequents the places I do) down an average enough seeming tree-lined road, and then out of nowhere Kōfukuji’s towering pagoda rose above the trees and beckoned me to enter the gates. This pagoda was so powerful I could do nothing but stand at its base and stare and stare. Beauty. The treasure house full of very important art was similarly great (especially the huge thousand armed Kannon in the center that incited a slight religious feeling and the stern statues with crystal eyes that did not break eye contact as I strolled by), but the pagoda is what stands out most in my mind.

The day would appear to be full enough by this point, but my fearless leader Cynthea insisted on taking us to the Nara National Museum as it turned six o’clock and the sun began to sink. Albeit tired and ready to rest my feet, we toured the main hall and its surrounding wings and took in several hundred more famous (and rightly so, Japanese Buddhist art is just spectacular) pieces, ranging from miniature bronzes to precisely detailed sandalwood statues and ending with oversized wood bodhisattvas and buddhas that seemed to encapsulate all the mysteries of existence.

Night one of four in a row for dinner at Kinasa treated me very well. A little too much reishū (cold sake), perhaps, but also the best karaage (Japanese fried chicken), pickled sanma (mackerel), and pepper salad. Happy, drunk end of the day. 

 

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