Today is the 21st, which marks the monthly market held in honor of Kukai's death anniversary at Tōji temple, just south of my house. Last month my friend Lili and I came late in the afternoon as everything was closing up for the day. This time, I biked down around 11am to see the market in full swing. Wow, was it! Shouts of welcome, come see this, come taste that, rang throughout corridors of stalls selling what I can only conclude is everything a person might possibly need, ever. Flowers, food, antiques, bicycles, spices, shoes, clothing, hardware, DVDs, everything! It also happened to be a marvelous autumn day. I ended up buying great holiday gifts, along with dried figs, molasses with turmeric, honey with ginger, fried chicken, and a piping hot pancake filled with sweet bean paste (I waited in line about twenty minutes for this, and it was worth every second!).